Natural Product Standards

Last Updated on July 22, 2021 by Dr. Sanusi Umar, MD

At Dr.UGro Gashee™, we’ve created our hair wellness line by using ingredients and formulation processes that align with the essence of what it means to be “all-natural.” A big part of this undertaking involves utilizing well-defined standards that manufacturers of high-integrity natural products generally accept. 

In recent years, more and more people have started to embrace the healing benefits and goodness offered by Mother Earth through their lifestyle and purchase decisions. This demand has given rise to a fantastic wealth of consumer options intended to help minimize and avoid synthetic chemicals in our lives. Yet, we must all remember that just because a product is labeled with the word natural doesn’t mean that we can simply assume that it’s as true to nature as we might want to believe.

Nature is a source for cosmetic and medicinal needs
Many cosmetic, medicinal, and personal care needs can be addressed through natural sources. Natural product standards are necessary for providing the proper guidance for the creation of these household items.

There are two considerations we must take into account. First, the artificial components may be disproportionately much more significant compared to natural or botanical ingredients. Secondly, the plant-derived factors may have been over-processed and have lost their biological effectiveness.

So, how should formulations be created to be as pure, effective, and safe as possible? Again, the answer lies in referencing accepted standards for natural product development. These criteria act as guidelines for selecting the right ingredients and the appropriate methods for processing them.

Brands like Dr.UGro Gashee™, as well as governing organizations committed to natural consumer products of the highest integrity, rely on these criteria for guiding the process of selecting the right ingredients and the appropriate methods for processing them. 

These standards, outlined below, are used by Dr.UGro Gashee™ as well as governing organizations whose mission is to provide consumers with natural products of the highest integrity.

Ingredients Avoided By Dr.UGro Gashee™ 

Natural product manufacturing standards generally prohibit compounds made of silicone or petroleum. Likewise, they must avoid ingredients that can potentially threaten human health, as supported by research and third-party peer-reviewed organizations. 

Below is a list of synthetic ingredients avoided by Dr.UGro Gashee™’s natural hair product line.

Acetone  a colorless liquid substance used to dissolve other substances. It evaporates quickly, is flammable, and dissolves in water.
Alcloxa  a compound that contains aluminum and is used in personal care products as an astringent.
Aluminum Chloride Hexahydrate  affects sweat glands and acts as an antiperspirant
Aluminum Chlorohydrate  a group of aluminum-based salts approved by the FDA is used for antiperspirant and water purification purposes by helping to remove organic material.
Ammonia  composed of hydrogen and nitrogen, ammonia is a colorless gas produced in the body, the air, soil, water, and bacteria. Ammonia contributes to metabolic processes.
Ammonium (C6-16 perfluoroalkyl ethyl phosphate)  a different form of nitrogen than ammonia. Ionized forms of ammonium in water are harmless to aquatic life.
Ammonium xylene sulfonate used to help improve the ability of water to dissolve other substances and molecules to remove dirt from the hair and skin. Often used in products like soap, detergent, shampoos, conditioners, etc., for this reason.
Benzalkonium Chloride an organic salt used in cleaning agents as an antimicrobial preservative, as well as an alternative to alcohol in alcohol-free formulations
Benzethonium Chloride  Also known as hyamine, benzethonium chloride is an ammonium salt that is white, solid, and soluble in water. It is often used for antimicrobial, surfactant, and anti-infective purposes and included in first aid antiseptics.
Benzophenone-3 A naturally occurring chemical compound derived in certain flowering plants. It absorbs and scatters the sun’s UV rays and is used in sunscreens.
BHT  a derivative of phenol, BHT is a lipophilic organic compound used for its antioxidant properties.
Chemical synthetic sunscreens, oxybenzone, and avobenzone  may disrupt the balance of hormones inside the human body
Cloflucarban  A carbanilide compound with antiseptic and disinfectant properties is used in products like deodorants and antimicrobial soaps.
Coal tar  Coal tar is a by-product in the form of a thick, dark liquid made from coke and coal gas derived from coal. It causes the skin to shed dead cells from the outermost layer and slow the growth of skin cells.
Cocamide DEA  Cocamide diethanolamine is made by combining fatty acids from coconut oils with diethanolamine. It is viscous and used as a foaming and emulsifying agent in bath products like shampoos and hand soaps.
Copper disodium EDTA  An astringent and chelating agent is used when small quantities of heavy metals are present inhibit reactions catalyzed by enzymes.
C9-15 (fluoroalcohol phosphate)  A skin conditioning agent is used to help thicken and prolong the life of makeup and skincare products.
Diazolidinyl urea  is used as an antibacterial and a preservative in cosmetics
Diethanolamine (DEA)  used as an emulsifier or foaming agent in cosmetics or adjust a product’s pH (i.e., acidity).
Dimethyl phenylbutazone Antimicrobial masking agents are used in product formulations such as fragrances, toiletries, and antiperspirants.
Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate  is used for skin brightening purposes
Disodium EDTA  Calcium disodium EDTA is a common food additive and an ingredient in both cosmetic and industrial products. It’s also used in food to preserve flavor, color, and texture
DMDM Hydantoin  a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products that slows and prevents spoilage in personal grooming and makeup products
EDTA  a chelating compound that binds to unwanted minerals and metals and can be removed from the body.
Emu oil  a yellow fatty liquid with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties from deposits found below the skin of the emu bird.
Equine oil  an oil derived from the fat of horses which is prized for its high linoleic fatty acid content, keeping unwanted substances out and moisture in
Ethanolamines MEA/DEA/TEA  compounds used to enhance foam viscosity. Ethanolamines are known to interact with other ingredients to produce a group of carcinogens called nitrosamines
Ethoxylated ingredients  made using a petrochemical known as ethylene oxide, which creates a trace contaminant known as 1,4 Dioxane, a possible cancer-causing agent. Examples of ethoxylated components include:

  • Sodium myreth sulfate
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate
  • PEG’s or PPG’s
Fluorosalan  commonly used as an ingredient in antiseptic handwash, healthcare personnel handwash, patient preoperative skin preparation, and surgical hand scrub products.
Formaldehyde  a colorless, strong-smelling gas used in making many household products.
Formaldehyde donors  (DMDM Hydantoin / Diazolidinyl Urea) – Used for preservative purposes, these compounds that operate by releasing formaldehyde
Glycols  Derived from petroleum, these synthetic compounds can potentially attract other types of chemicals into the bloodstream
Hexachlorophene  is an organochlorine compound that has been widely used as a disinfectant.
Hexylresorcinol  is an organic compound that possesses local anesthetic, antiseptic, and anthelmintic properties.
Hydroquinone  is a depigmenting agent for the skin, which decreases melanin formation.
Imidazolidinyl urea  is a preservative used in cosmetic products with antimicrobial properties.
Iodine complex with ammonium ether sulfate and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate
Iodine complex with phosphate ester of alkylaryloxy polyethylene glycol
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate  a water-soluble preservative
Isododecane Used as an oil-free solvent and emollient
Isoelcosane Valued for its weightless feel on the skin, it possesses a low viscosity and density and enhances the spreadability of products. It is used to prevent water loss from the skin and serves as an excellent emulsifier.
Lidocaine  Alocal anesthetic (numbing medication). It works by blocking nerve signals in your body.
Melanin  natural pigment, derived from the amino acid tyrosine, found in most organisms
Methyl nicotinate a methyl ester of Niacin used as an active ingredient in topical over-the-counter medications indicated for muscle and joint pain
Methylchloroisothiazolinone is a preservative used in water-based cosmetics which is active against bacteria, yeast, and fungi
Methylene bis-benzotriazole tetromethylbutylphenol  an organic compound that is added to sunscreens to absorb UV rays
Methylene glycol an ingredient used for hair-straightening products, formed by the reaction of formaldehyde with water
Methylisothiazolinone  a synthetic biocide and preservative classified as isothiazolinones, used in many personal care products
Microbeads  manufactured solid particles of less than one millimeter in their largest dimension
Myristamide DEA  Waxy solids that vary in color from white to tan are used in cosmetics and personal care products. These ingredients are used to formulate deodorants, shampoos, makeup, bath products, hair and skincare products.
Nonylphenoxypoly(ethleneoxy) ethanolidine 
Octafluoropentyl methacrylate Also known as OFPMA, this compound is used as a weightless, invisible shield that repels dirt and oil to keep hair cleaner, longer.
Octinoxate  Octinoxate, also called octyl methoxycinnamate or (OMC), is a UV filter that can be absorbed rapidly through the skin
Oleamide DEA  viscous liquids or waxy solids, which are fatty acids derivatives of diethanolamine (DEA) used in shampoos, hair dyes, bath products, and lotions
Perfluorodecalin  a fluorocarbon, result of decalin where all of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms. It can dissolve large quantities of oxygen
Perfluorodimethylcyclohexane  Perfluoro-1,3-dimethyl cyclohexane which is chemically and biologically inert as a solvent for gases
Perfluorononyl dimethicone Chemicals are used for binding gases and solids together for taking out compounds.
Perfluorononylthyl carboxymethyl PEG-10 dimethicone

 

An ingredient used for cosmetic formulations for emulsifying and conditioning the skin.

 

Perflurooctyl triethoxysilane
Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene used as a solvent to prepare membranes for absorbing chemicals
Phenol an antiseptic and disinfectant which works against many micro-organisms, including fungi and viruses, and is used to relieve skin itching
Phenylethyl resorcinol an antioxidant sourced from pine trees
Phthalates used as solvents or dissolving agents
Picaridin Also known as Icaridin, picaridin is also used as an insect repellant
Poloxamer-iodine complex Used to help heal superficial cuts, wounds, abrasions, insect bites, and bruises on the skin of mammals
Polyimide-1 used as a styling resin for hair mousse and gel formulations
Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluorethyl Peg Phosphate
Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG -2 Phosphate
Polypropylene a thermoplastic polymer used for a wide variety of applications
Povidone-iodine a topical application for treating and preventing wound infections, used for minor cuts, burns, blisters, etc
PTFE a hydrophobic, non-wetting synthetic fluoropolymer of tetrafluoroethylene which is resistant to high temperatures and is known for its non-stick properties
Parabens A synthetic group of chemical compounds which may potentially disrupt the endocrine system
Petroleum, mineral oil, paraffin considered as non-renewable crude oil byproducts which often contain toxic or unsafe impurities
Phthalates Used for fragrance purposes, these artificial compounds are potentially toxic.
PVP/ Acrylates Synthetic polymer stabilizers which may contain residual compounds and organic pollutants known as PAH’s (Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons)
Quaternium 15 a skin toxicant and allergen as well as a formaldehyde-releasing chemical
Secondary amyltricresols often used in hand sanitizers, but not considered safe or effective by the FDA
Sh-oligopeptide-1 an epidermal growth factor or EGF
Silver citrate a preservative (i.e., salt of silver and citric acid) that’s supposed to work as a natural alternative that breaks down the cell membrane of bacteria
Sodium bisulfate a dry acid that comes in a crystal, granular, or powder form, used as a pH adjuster, fungicide, herbicide, or microbicide (a product that kills microbes)
Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate a category of anionic surfactants used in personal care and household products
Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate a formaldehyde-releasing preservative used in shampoos, conditioners, room sprays, cleaning agents, and pesticides
Sodium magnesium fluorosilicate a synthetic silicate clay, made of magnesium and sodium silicate used as a binder and bulking agent in cosmetics
Sodium oxychlorosene Used as a topical antiseptic for treating infections caused by microorganisms
Sodium xylene sulfonate a surfactant and wetting agent found in shampoos and other personal care products, primarily in shampoos since it helps spread formulas more easily
Polyamide DEA a combination of ethanolamides of soy acid typically used to increase viscosity by increasing foam
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite Synthetic fluorphlogopite (also spelled Fluorophlogopite) is fluorine substituted mineral composed of magnesium aluminum silicate sheets, weakly bound together by potassium. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is used in a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, including bath products, eye makeup, lipstick, face makeup, and nail and skin care products.
Sodium lauryl sulfate a harsh cleansing agent included in many cleaning and grooming products which may damage the outer protective lipid layer of the skin, causing extreme dryness and irritation
Synthetic fragrances Synthetic chemicals used to provide fragrance for products
TBHQ (tertiary butylhydroquinone) an additive to preserve processed foods that acts as an antioxidant but carries potential health risks.
Tetrasodium EDTA Tetrasodium ETDA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) is a water-soluble chelating compound that binds to specific mineral ions to inactivate them so that it can prevent the deterioration of cosmetic and personal care products
Tetrasodium Etidronate used in much personal care and cosmetic products as a chelator to bind to mineral or free metal ions.
Toluene a colorless aromatic hydrocarbon added to gasoline as well as benzene and toluene xylene
Tribromsalan An antiseptic ingredient used in hand and body wash drug products
Triclocarban an antibacterial agent used against Gram-positive bacteria
Triclosan an antibacterial and antifungal agent presents a similar mechanism of action as triclocarban and is used in products like toothpaste, soaps, detergents, toys, and surgical cleaning treatments. It is identical in its uses and mechanism of action to triclocarban
Trisodium EDTA a chelating agent used to enhance skin absorption
Undecoylium chloride iodine complex a cationic detergent often used topically against germs
Vanillyl butyl ether added to food as a flavoring agent and cosmetics and personal care items to provide fragrance.

Safe Natural Processes Used By Dr.UGro Gashee™ 

Selecting the right ingredients is just one part of creating natural products. However, another important consideration, which is often overlooked, is how

  1. Each of the ingredients in a product is derived. If natural or toxic processes were used to extract the element, it is not acceptable and not permitted in the ingredient list of Gashee.
  2. How the ingredients are combined and formulated to produce the final product. Notwithstanding the following list of processes considered okay by natural products standards, Gashee products were developed using cold techniques that eschew high temperatures, using no toxic chemicals in the process. The effect is that ingredients retain their original biological effectiveness.

Here is a list of accepted processes used in the manufacturing of high-integrity natural products.

Distillation

 

High-pressure steam to isolate the essential oil components from plants such as flowers, herbs, and roots.

 

Esterification or Transesterification to Produce Esters

 

The use of an alkali or an acid to catalyze forming an ester bond between an alcohol and an acid.

Reagents: NA

Catalysts: NaCO3, KCO3, KOH, NaOH, CH3ONa, CH3CH2ONa, sulfuric/phosphoric acid

Inputs: alcohol and acids such as acetic acid, fatty alcohols, glycation, ethanol, and acetic acid.

 

 

Etherification of Glycerin Making Polyglyceryls: 

 

The process of using heat with an alkali to form ether bonds between two natural glycerin (see fat-splitting) compounds to develop the result of polyglycerols. The number of glycerin molecules indicates different types of polyglycerols joined together.

 

Expression:

 

Cold-pressing of plant botanicals using physical or mechanical approaches to obtain essential oils and other desired components.

Reagents: NA

Catalysts: NA

Inputs: plant-derived material such as flowers, herbs, and spices

 

Extraction:

 

the physical acquiring of plant-derived extracts from original botanicals sourced from nature

Reagents: CO2, alcohol

Catalysts: none

Inputs: Plant material such as herbs, flowers, leaves, roots

 

Fat-Splitting of Oils to Produce Glycerin and Fatty Acids:

 

A particular type of hydrolysis where natural fats and oils are split to produce the end products of fatty acids and glycerin

Reagents:  water derived from high-pressure steam

Catalysts: metal/metal compounds such as platinum, zinc oxide, nickel palladium,

Inputs: sugars, triglyceride fats and oils, and carbohydrates

 

Fermentation:

 

the conversion of carbohydrates into carbon dioxide, alcohol, or organic acids

Reagents: NA

Catalysts: enzymes

Inputs: bacteria, carbohydrates, sugars, yeasts, fungi

 

 

Glucosidation of Glucose and Fatty Alcohol: 

 

using a type of esterification to attach glucose to alcohol.

Reagents: NA

Catalysts: Toluene sulfonic acid

Inputs: glucose and fatty alcohol

 

Hydrogenolysis of methyl esters of oil to produce fatty alcohols:

 

The use of hydrogen to break chemical bonds. This is achieved by converting a fatty acid ester into fatty alcohol and ethyl or methyl alcohol (whichever is used for the ester). This process can be applied directly to the fatty acid without the ester conversion first.

Reagents: hydrogen derived from natural gas

Catalysts: methanol, platinum, platinum, palladium

Inputs: Fat/oil original as input, ethyl or methyl ester of triglyceride fat/oil

 

Hydrogenation of oils: 

 

Adding hydrogen with a catalyst to reduce unsaturated bonds to convert unsaturated to saturated fatty acids. This can also be applied to waxes or oils.

 

Hydrolysis of complex proteins into simple amino acids:

 

breaking down complex proteins into peptides (if partially hydrolyzed) or water-soluble amino acids

Reagents: water

Catalysts: enzymes (KOH or NaOH) or alkali

Inputs: proteins, sugars, carbohydrates,

 

Oxidation with Mild Agents: 

 

The conversion of aldehydes and alcohols to acids through oxidation

Reagents: copper salts, silver, dilute H2O2

Catalysts: silver, copper

Inputs: alcohols and aldehydes derived from plant sources

 

Protein Fragment Acylation:

 

the process of attaching a fatty acid to a nitrogen-containing compound. The fatty acid must first be converted into a fatty acid chloride before it is attached to the nitrogen of a protein fragment

Reagents: NaOH or KOH

Catalysts: Thionyl Chloride or Phosphorous Trichloride

Inputs: fatty acid and protein fragment

 

Saponification of Oils to Make Soap:

 

adding an alkali to split oils or fats into free fatty acids and glycerin through a type of hydrolysis process.

Reagents: alkali (NaOH or KOH)

Catalysts: NA

Inputs: triglyceride fats and oils

 

Sulfation of fatty alcohol:

 

converting fatty alcohol into a sulfate ester which produces the result of a surfactant. While this can be achieved with sodium lauryl sulfate, this is is not permitted in natural product standards

Reagents: NaOH and sulfate/ SO3

Catalysts: NA

Inputs: fatty alcohol

 

 

Allowed Ingredients in Dr.UGro Gashee ™ Products

The flora, fauna, and mineral components of our ingredients are sourced from natural origins. Below is the alphabetized and condensed version of our ingredient list. The complete and comprehensive understanding can be accessed here.

Abies balsamea (Abies balsamea (L.), Mill, Pinaceae) Oil extract from the balsam fir tree has warming and soothing characteristics ideal for body care products, diffusions, and mists.
Acacia dealbata (Acacia dealbata, (L.) Link, Fabaceae (Syn. Acacia decurrens var. dealbata (Link) F. Muell. ex Maiden)) A shrub plant prized for its fiber has medicinal properties used for throat issues, inflammation, and other applications.
Achillea millefolium (Achillea millefolium (L.), Asteraceae (Syn. Achillea lanulosa Nutt.)) A flowering plant, also known as yarrow and used for its healing medicinal properties for various health ailments.

 

Aesculus hippocastanum (Aesculus hippocastanum (L.), Hippocastanaceae (Syn. Hippocastanum Vulgare Gaertn.)) A flowering plant from Asia is used for health issues such as edemas, venous insufficiencies, hemorrhoids, etc.
Aloe barbadensis (Aloe barbadensis Mill. (L.), Aloaceae (Syn: Aloe vera (L.) Burm. f.)) Gel producing plant, which is valued for its skin and hair moisturizing properties. It is also known for its anti-inflammation and wound healing properties.
Arginine An amino acid is used in the biosynthesis of proteins. L-arginine is a more usable form for the body.
Avocado Oil Unsaponifiables (Avocado Sterols Oil extract from the avocado is rich in oleic acid and an antioxidant called lutein. Used as a moisturizer and an anti-inflammatory
Abelmoschus moschatus ((L.) Medic, Malvaceae (Syn. Hibiscus Abelmoschus (L.))) A hibiscus-like flower grown in Asia, Africa, and Australia for the most part. It is used for aromatic and medicinal purposes.
Abies balsamea (Abies balsamea (L.), Mill, Pinaceae) Oil extract from the balsam tree, valued for its soothing, cleansing, and antiseptic properties, which benefits the skin and scalp for conditions like eczema, ringworm, and dandruff
Acacia dealbata (Acacia dealbata, (L.) Link, Fabaceae (Syn. Acacia decurrens var. dealbata (Link) F. Muell. ex Maiden)) Used to make a white powder, also known as gum arabic for personal care products. It binds compounds together to form a seamless composite
Ascorbic Acid Also known as vitamin C, ascorbic acid helps the skin produce collagen and fights oxidative damage from free radicals.
Aspartic Acid Used in the biosynthesis of proteins, aspartic acid is considered an a-amino acid.
Bentonite Mineral clay is used in powdered form as a chelating agent to bind and remove toxic compounds from the body.
Bioflavonoids Antioxidant compounds found in many plants
Biotin B vitamin which plays a role in cell metabolism and other functions needed for general health and the wellness of hair follicles
Butyrum The Latin word for butter can be derived from plants or animals. The term butter refers to a semi-solid emulsified substance at room temperature.
Calcium Ascorbate Salt is made of ascorbic acid and calcium, which are included for preservative purposes. Calcium ascorbate is used to treat vitamin C deficiencies.
Calcium Carbonate Used as a dietary supplement to help address dietary calcium deficiencies due to insufficient quantities of this mineral
Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside A natural surfactant (cleanser) derived from sources like coconut and used in cosmetic products for its foaming properties
Cedarwood Oil (Cedrus atlantica Bark Oil) Oil extract derived from the cedar tree offers potent anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties.
Decyl Cocoate A fatty acid is derived from coconut oil and is valued for its moisturizing properties.
Dextrin Safe thickening and adhesive agent, made from the hydrolysis of starch. Dextrin is used for producing dietary supplements.
Dextrin Palmitate Dextrin palmitate is used for anticaking, emulsifying, surfactant, and anti-caking purposes.
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Also known as sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate is gentle enough for cleansing sensitive skin. Produced from vegetable oils, it biodegrades easily.
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract Referred to as Amla or Indian gooseberry, the Emblica fruit offers powerful antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress.
Erythrulose A carbohydrate compound derived from red berries which work with dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as a natural skin tanning agent
Eugenol An active medical compound found in cinnamon has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.
Fermented Grain Extract Fermented grain extract is concentrated from wheat germ and is fermented with yeast to form benzoquinones that are biologically active.
Ferula galbaniflua (galbanum) oil Derived from a fragrant resin that helps address inflammation and promotes wound healing
Fructose a natural sugar derived from honey, fruits, and certain types of vegetables
Gallic Acid A phenolic acid is commonly found in tea, oak, witch hazel, gallnuts, and other plants. Used in Ayurveda and other healing systems, it is valued for its powerful antioxidant properties.
Gevuina avellana Seed Oil Oil derived from the Gevuina seed is used for making vegetable-based waxes due to its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. (23 words)
Ginkgo biloba Derived from what is known as the “maidenhair tree,” Ginkgo biloba offers vasodilating properties and also may help treat cognitive disorders.
Glycerin A clear, odorless liquid compound that is safe for use in household and personal care products. It is used in wound healing and is valued for its antimicrobial and antiviral characteristics.
Glyceryl Laurate Made from vegetable oils, glyceryl laureate can be used for many applications, including the conditioning of skin and a deodorizer.
Glyceryl Oleate Produced from glycerin and oleic acid, glyceryl oleate is used as a safe and non-toxic emulsifier.
Glycoproteins Made from sugar and protein, glycoproteins are found on the surface of cells and work with growth factors and other compounds to promote new collagen development to repair and renew the skin.
Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil A light, non-greasy oil which is rich in vitamins E and A. As a rich source of antioxidants, it helps regenerate the skin
Henna A natural plant-based brown-colored dye adorns the skin and colors the hair, among other beauty applications.
Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic acid is a natural viscous compound with extraordinary water-retaining properties, prized as a skin and hair moisturizer. Though it is found in mammals, modern product formulations use a highly sterilized version derived from bacteria.
Hydrolyzed Beeswax A form of beeswax which has undergone a breakdown reaction process with water, allowing for better and more even consistency when mixed with other compounds
Hydrolyzed Oats Oats have been treated with a hydrolyzation(breakdown) process using water as a reagent. The end product is softer for topical use on the skin.
Illicium verum Also known as star anise, illicium verum fights against bacteria and fungi. It also helps fight against oxidative damage.
Inositol

 

A component of lecithin that possesses water-binding properties for skin-replenishing uses
Iris florentina A flowering plant whose roots are used for beauty and medical purposes. Root extracts help prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin. It also fortifies the skin’s natural moisture barrier and improves the appearance of wrinkles.
Isoeugenol Used in beauty products for its natural and safe fragrance properties
Jasminum grandiflorum A fragrant flower distilled to produce highly-prized essential oil benefits many health areas such as stress, menstrual issues, inflammation, and skin issues.
Jojoba Esters Produced from the esters of jojoba oil and a hydrogenated form of this oil to create occlusives, emollients, and scrubs. Used for moisturization and healing skin conditions like psoriasis, acne, and eczema
Juniperus communis Extracts derived from the common Juniper tree and berries are used in natural cosmetics due to their anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and antibacterial properties.
Kalanchoe daigremontiana Extract from this succulent provides antibiotic and antioxidant benefits which may offer usefulness in cosmetic and beauty applications.
Kaolin Also known as China clay or magnesium silicate, kaolin adds absorbency to cleansers as it exfoliates dead skin and dirt.
Krameria triandra Roots from this plant are used for many medicinal purposes, including intestinal swelling and chest pain.
Lactic Acid Lactic acid or lactate is an end-product of anaerobic respiration. It is used to address age spots, hyperpigmentation, skin tone, and large pores in skincare.
Lactose Lactose is a sugar found in milk used in beauty product formulations as a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Lanolin A wax derived from the oil of animals used for their wool helps prevent moisture loss from the skin as an emollient
Lauric Acid Lauric acid is found in vegetable fats from sources like kernel oil, palm, and coconut. While it can be used for medicinal purposes, it is commonly used in soap and shampoo formulations.
Lavandula latifolia Commonly referred to as Portuguese lavender, flower extracts contain medicinal constituents such as linalool, linalyl acetate, and various phenolic compounds. This lavender variety is valued for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal properties.
Lecithin Fat can be found in many food sources and used in natural cosmetics for its skin moisturizing abilities.
Magnesium Carbonate Natural mineral salt is used for cosmetic purposes due to its absorbent properties and its ability to balance the skin’s pH.
Magnesium Silicate Used in powder form for many types of natural cosmetic and skincare products. It works as an abrasive, absorbent, anticaking factor, deodorizer, thickener, and emulsifier.
Magnesium Sulfate Also referred to as Epsom salt, magnesium sulfate is a white crystalline compound used in personal care and cosmetics such as makeup, cleansers, and bath products. This compound is solid and non-reactive, used to improve product volume and dilute other substances.
Maltodextrin Maltodextrin is a starchy white powder commonly used for its preservative properties to help prolong the shelf life of products.
Milk Protein Also known as lactic protenium, milk protein improves the skin’s hydration and moisture retention by providing a protective barrier that enhances its softness.
Narcissus poeticus (Narcissus poeticus (L.), Liliaceae) A flower essence is processed as wax for skin, body, and baby care and sun protection.
Nicotinic Acid (niacin) Niacin helps the skin and hair retain their moisture balance. It can also help prevent damage and repair DNA.
Oleic Acid A naturally occurring fatty acid derived from vegetable fats and oils. Used for its moisturization properties and ability to improve the skin’s permeability.
Oleyl Erucate A vegetable-based liquid wax ester is used as a moisturizing emollient.
Olive Oil Unsaponifiables Antioxidant-rich component of olive oil derived after processing which is rich in squalene and phytosterols. This derivative is absorbed easily helps the skin retain its moisture.
Olus An oil that is derived 100% from plants. This substance is odorless, clear, and semi-solid. In natural beauty products, it softens the hair and skin.
Ormenis multicaulis Also known as wild Moroccan chamomile moderately rich in phenolic compounds such as apigenin, flavenoids, quercetin, luteolin and others. This chamomile variety is known for its skin-soothing properties.
Palmitic Acid Palmitic acid is naturally found in palm oil and palm kernel oil. It serves many different functions in cosmetics as a cleanser, emollient, and moisturizer
Phospholipids A lipid molecule that contains a phosphate group within hydrophilic and hydrophobic ends. This amphiphilic property is useful for applications such as emulsification and wetting.
Piper nigrum (Piper nigrum (L.), Piperaceae) Commonly known as black pepper, the peppercorn fruit is harvested and dried for culinary and medical purposes. In natural beauty products, it acts as an antioxidant, antimicrobial and repairing agent.
Potassium Hydroxide Also known as lye, or caustic potash, potassium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide is highly alkaline and used to modify ph in products. It is used mostly as a cleansing agent in soaps.
Proline An amino acid is used in the biosynthesis of proteins. It is widely used for anti-aging purposes since it can support skin regeneration, elasticity, and collagen production.
Prunus cerasus L. Commonly referred to as sour cherry, this plant derivative is an abundant source of antioxidants.
Pumice A volcanic mineral that is often turned into powder form when used as an ingredient in cosmetic products. Its mildly abrasive nature makes it ideal as a skin exfoliator.
Retinyl Palmitate A vitamin A derivative shown in clinical studies to improve skin cell turnover
Rhizobian Gum Produced by fermenting a plant-derived compound called rhizobian, this gum is used as a thickening agent.
Riboflavin Riboflavin, also known as B2, is part of eight B vitamins needed for human health. It is water-soluble and breaks down food while helping the body absorb other nutrients. Riboflavin helps with tissue maintenance.
Rosa gallica Also referred to as Gallic or French rose, this flower variety is prized for its fragrance and skin enhancing properties as an astringent, conditioner, and toner.
Rose Flower Oil Besides offering its signature fragrance, rose flower oil can also work to hydrate the skin, reduce aging signs and improve conditions like rosacea and eczema.
Rutin Rutin is a type of plant pigment that is also a bioflavonoid. Rich food sources include apples, citrus fruits, and green tea. As a potent source of antioxidants, rutin helps improve collagen production by optimizing your body’s usage of vitamin C
Salicylic Acid A beta-hydroxy acid is often included in natural personal care products. It is known as a key ingredient for improving acne by clearing pores and exfoliating the skin.
Salix nigra (Willow) Bark Extract This bark from the will tree is an excellent source of natural salicylic acid used to exfoliate and renew the skin. It is valued for its non-irritating properties.
Sambucus nigra (Sambucus nigra (L.), Caprifoliaceae A plant from which the elderberry grows. This botanical is rich in flavenoids which provide an abundant source of antioxidants. In beauty care, it offers skin-soothing, astringent and moisturizing effects. (30 words)
Silica Silica is an abundant mineral found in nature, necessary for supporting life. The human body has an alkalizing effect and boosts collagen formation, which benefits the hair, skin, and nails.
Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Amaranth Protein A rich source of natural, plant-based protein, this gluten-free grain is an abundant source of amino acids which can also nourish, cleanse and condition the skin.
Sodium Laurate Sodium salt of a fatty acid called lauric acid, sodium laurate is a white solid used in natural soap formulations.
Sodium Oleate A surfactant and emulsifier commonly used in natural beauty and cosmetic products, such as soap.
Sodium Thiosulfate The compound used to modify the hair strands through straightening or swelling. Offers a less toxic alternative to many comparative synthetic chemicals used for these purposes.
Sorbic Acid A natural, organic constituent originally derived from Sorbus aucuparia berries. It is a clear solid which is slightly water-soluble and used as a preservative for food, hair, and skin products.
Sphingolipids

 

A class of long-chain lipids shown to have skin-conditioning and replenishing properties
Stearyl Beeswax

 

Made by using stearyl alcohol in a process to soften and chemically altar beeswax so that it can be used as a more effective emollient in skin and hair products
Sucrose Polypalmate Plant-derived fatty acid is used in natural cosmetic product formulations as an emulsifier, conditioner, and surfactant.
Sulfated Castor Oil Also known as Turkey Red Oil, sulfated castor oil mixes with water and is used in bath oil, soaps, and other personal care products. Due to this chemical dynamic, it can retain the moisturization properties offered by castor oil while combining with water.
Syringa vulgaris (Syringa vulgaris (L.), Oleaceae Also known as common lilac, this flower variety is a rich source of antioxidants and may be included in cosmetic formulations as a skin conditioner
Talc A mineral that is ground into an excellent powder used in cosmetics to retain moisture in the skin. It is also used in face powder formulations.
Tannic Acid Extracted from trees, tannic acid has anti-bacterial, astringent, and anti-enzymatic properties. In natural skin products it is included to help prevent blemishes and breakouts.
Terminalia arjuna Bark extract from this plant is used in skin beauty products to fortify the skin moisture barrier. This essence can also promote sebum production and prevent dryness of the skin.
Threonine Threonine is an amino acid used to biosynthesize proteins. It can be used in natural cosmetic formulas for the skin and hair as a cell growth promoter due to its ability to balance other proteins.
Tilia cordata (Tilia cordata Mill., Tiliaceae) A tree extract consisting of concentrated niacinamide tightens the skin and minimizes sagging pores. It is also used to help treat sun damage and premature signs of aging.
Tyrosine A non-essential amino acid is used by cells to manufacture proteins. May also promote collagen synthesis.
Ubiquinone An antiaging coenzyme, known as coenzyme Q, and a metabolite that also plays a role as an antioxidant
Urtica dioica (Urtica dioica (L.), Urticaceae) Commonly known as nettle, the Urtica dioica extract is used in natural hair and skin beauty formulations for anti-aging properties. It serves as a natural astringent, a skin tightener, a sebum promoter, among other roles.
Valeriana celtica (Valeriana celtica (L.), Valerianaceae) The plant-based extract known for its soothing, calming properties for the mind and body. Often included in holistic wellness products for this reason
Vegetable Oil A safe, non-toxic plant based carrier oil used to dilute other extracts, essences, and compounds
Viola tricolor (Viola tricolor (L.), Violaceae) Also referred to as wild pansy viola tricolor, which may help boost the concentration of hyaluronic acid and its receptors in the skin, as a mechanism of hydration.
Wheat Germ Glycerides Wheat germ glycerides act as a skin lubricant and are often included in the formulation of natural cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and more. This component helps the skin appear smooth and soft.
Xanthan Gum A polysaccharide is an ingredient in food and natural cosmetic formulations for thickening and stabilizing purposes, helping prevent ingredients from separating.
Yogurt Made from the bacterial fermentation of either plant or animal-based milk. Yogurt may be used in cosmetic formulas since it contains an alpha hydroxy acid, also known as lactic acid, which removes dead skin cells.

Allowed Synthetic Ingredients

In certain circumstances, this list of synthetic ingredients is sometimes included in natural products as temporary options until comparable plant-based options can be available.

Benzyl alcohol Aromatic alcohol with antimicrobial properties is used as a solvent for other ingredients as well as a preservative.
Coco Betaine Commonly used to condition hair and skin, coco betaine is used as a natural surfactant derived from coconut oil and used as a thickener. It also improves the texture of natural topical products.
Dehydroacetic acid A sodium salt is highly soluble in water which is often used as a bactericide and a fungicide. Dehydroacetic acid shows no evidence of toxicity and is considered a safe additive for skin care products.
Phenoxyethanol A solvent is known as glycol ether which is used as a preservative. Phenoxyethanol is often included as an ingredient in much personal care and cosmetic products.
Potassium Sorbate Potassium salt of sorbic acid (synthetically made from sorbic acid and potassium hydroxide) is used as a chemical additive and preservative in food and personal care products.
Sodium Benzoate A synthetic preservative and a sodium salt of benzoic acid made from reacting sodium hydroxide and benzoic acid

 

The following is a list of quaternary synthetic anti-static compounds included in hair conditioning products until comparative natural counterparts can be used instead.

guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride An organic compound and a water-solutive derivative of guar gum to create an appropriate consistency for hair conditioning products used after shampooing.
hydroxypropyltrimonium honey A conditioning compound for the hair made from natural honey acts as a humectant while providing a rich source of antioxidants.
shea butter amidopropyltrimonium chloride A hybrid processed shea butter compound enhances its penetrability, moisturization, and hair conditioning properties for use in after-shampoo products.

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